Hearty winter Cholent for everyone

According to the great Claudia Rodin (author of “The Book of Jewish Food” and “The New Book of Middle Eastern Food,” among many others) the origins of the classic French cassoulet and the traditional Jewish cholent are intermingled. My version is a combination of the two.  I have yet to meet someone who did not like this, even those who “don’t like cholent.”  I make this in a huge (and very heavy) cast iron Dutch oven (8 quart), which fits nicely into our 36-inch oven, but the recipe can easily be split into two smaller more manageable casseroles, as long as you can fit them into your oven, or halved.

The marrow bones of the osso buco add richness, as does the fat from the goose breast, which is a nod to my father’s Hungarian origins.  I don’t like the “gooey” effect of too much pearl barley, but a little adds nice texture.  The beef stock adds to the overall very rich umami experience.  I like large white beans, reminiscent of cassoulet, as they hold their shape and become luscious with long cooking. Another nod to cassoulet is the addition of sausage.

Wine Recommendation:  A bright Sauvignon Blanc or rich Chardonnay could offer a nice contrast, but I generally go for a lighter red such as Pinot Noir.  Syrah also makes a good pair as the natural smoky element of the wine connects to the subtle smokiness of the cholent that comes from the goose breast and paprika.

We like to have a mixed green salad along with the cholent.

Cholent (Overnight Stew)
Victor Style

Serves 8+

Ingredients

 4.4 lbs osso bucco cut into 0.7 inches thick slices (by the butcher)

2 smoked one-half goose breasts/duck (about 600 g), cut crosswise into 0.4 inches slices

2.2 pounds sausage (I use beef/lamb/pistachio sausage, locally produced), cut into 4-inch lengths

1.1 pounds large dry white beans, soaked for about 12 hours in water

 1 whole head of garlic, separated into whole peeled cloves

3.3 pounds new red potatoes, washed

 Eggs (as many as you can fit in, try one per person)

 4 onions, chopped

 2 shallots, thinly sliced

 1 cup pickled pearl onions, whole, drained

 3.5 ounces pearl barley

1/4 cup decent red wine for deglazing

 Beef stock

 Salt to taste

 Pepper to taste

 Smoked paprika to taste

Directions

1.       Brown the slices of goose in a large, heavy bottomed skillet (you can do this directly in the Dutch oven, but I find it easier this way).  You need no oil, as the goose fat quickly renders itself. Set aside.

2.       Brown the osso buco in the goose fat. Set aside.

3.       Brown the sausage in the same pan, set aside.

4.       Add the onions and shallots and sauté in the remaining fat, until lightly browned.  Add a bit of olive oil if necessary. Set aside.

5.       Deglaze the pan with the red wine, then transfer liquid to Dutch oven.

6.       Make a thin layer at the bottom of the Dutch oven with a third of the beans and onion and barley, with a sprinkling of the spices.

7.       Add a layer of half of the osso buco, sausage, eggs and potatoes.

8.       Add another layer of the beans, etc.

9.       Add another layer of the meat, etc.

10.   Finish with the remaining beans, etc.  Depending on the size of the osso buco slices, eggs and potatoes, it could be a challenge to fit everything in.  Have an additional casserole on hand for the overflow, if any.

11.   Fill with liquid until there’s about 1 inch of liquid covering the ingredients.  If you have enough beef stock, use that.  If the beef stock is concentrated, use to taste and then use water to come to desired level.  If you do not have stock, use water.

12.   Bring to a boil and remove scum.

13.   Cover with lid.  If the lid does not fit tightly, there is a danger of the cholent drying out and burning overnight.  You can add a doubled strip of aluminum foil between the Dutch oven and lid to help seal.

14.   Put overnight in a 230 degree oven.

15.   In the morning, I check on the cholent to see everything is okay.  If it is missing liquid, I will add some water.  If it is too fatty, I will skim some of the fat off the top.  If it is too liquidy, I will take some of the liquid out and reduce in another pan and return.

16.   Shoot for a consistency of a stew; not soup on the one hand or neither a pile of mush.

17.   After reaching desired consistency, turn off heat.

18.   Reheat prior to serving.

19.   Open at table and hear “oohs” and “ahhs.”

20.   Enjoy.

21.   Take a nap.

VICTOR SCHOENFELD is head winemaker at Yarden- Golan Heights Winery in Israel.